Born in Nottingham
1941, started climbing at the age of 12. Married to the
Indian climber Sharavati (Sharu) Prabhu.
With a remarkable climbing career, with over 30 expeditions
to inner Asia, Doug Scott is regarded as one of the world's
leading high altitude and big wall climbers. All his climbs
are done in lightweight alpine style, except for the historic
ascent with Dougal Haston of the Southwest Face
of Everest in 1975. He hasclimbed all over the world and
there are few mountain ranges not visited by him. Half
of his climbs are first ascents.
He has twice attempted the unclimbed, eight-mile long
Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat.
By climbing the Carstens Pyramid he finished the "Seven
Summits", all the highest mountains on each continent.
In 1975, at the age of 32, Doug was an upcoming star in
the mountaineering scene, now he faced his hardest climb
this far; Mount Everest by the Southwest Face. This was
his third expedition to Mount Everest in three years.
Though, this time he was ready to take one step further.
By taking a greater risk, he and Dougal Haston reached
the summit at dusk, it was too late to descend safely
and the pair decided to bivouac at 8,748 meters. "Inside
their snow cave, the men rubbed their extremities, had
conversations with imaginary partners, and drifted into
a psychological netherworld of hypoxia." When dawn
came, they where still alive and fought their way down
the mountain.
© Per Jerberyd 1997-2002
"That bivouac (on Everest in -75) was crucial to
me, a turning point in the way I have lived"
- Doug
Scott
SELECTED CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS
Asgard
Baruntse
Broad Peak
Carstensz Pyramid
Chamlang
Changabang
Chimtarga
Chombu East
Diran
El Capitain
Everest
Hanging Glacier Peak South
Hindu Kush
Indian Arete
Jitchu Drake
Kangchenjunga
Kangchungste
Koh-i-Bandaha
Kussum Kangguru
Latok III
Lobsang Spire
Makalu
McKinley
Mt. Kenya
Mt.Chamlang East Summit
Nanga Parbat (attempt via Mazeno Ridge)
Nuptse
Ogre
Pic Lenin
Pungpa Ri
Salathe Wall
Shisha Pangma
Shivling E Pillar
Tarso Teiroko
Traverse over central summit Chamlang
Wadi Rum,
Vinson
Books by Doug Scott
» Himalayan
Climber
» Big
wall climbing
More about Doug Scott
» Chris Bonington biography
(incl. the Ogre epic)
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