| Born 06.12.1956
in Acereto / South Tyrol.
The adept of Reinhold Messner, together they have climbed
seven 8,000 meter summits including the traverse between
Gasherbrum I and II in 1986. The traverse took 8 days,
always on an altitude above 7,500 metres. This climb
is considered by Messner, to be his supreme Himalayan
achievement. In 1991, Messner and Kammerlander teamed
up again, and made a climbing / hiking travel around
South-Tyrol, 1,200 km climbing and gaining 100,000 metres.
All in all, Kammerlander has been climbing over 2,000
routes in the Alps and Dolmites. (Including the north
faces of Grandes Jorasses, Matterhorn and Eiger).
In 1992, he put up another record by climbing Matterhorn
up and down four times in 23 hours and 26 minutes following
the ridges Hörnli, Furggen, Lion and Zmuttgrat.
In 1996 Kammerlander climbed Everest in the record time
of 23,5 hours, base-camp and back. The descent was partly
done on ski.
As a warming up and to acclimatize before Everest, Hans
scaled off Shisma Pangma: -"I did it on that very
day, when all these people died on Everest - May 10.
It was terribly cold - at least 40 degrees below zero,
the strongest wind. My wife and I set the camp at the
altitude of 7,400 m., and the next day I reached the
summit in 3 hours. I left my skis in the camp, so I
did the ski-descent from 7,400 m. It was the final testing
of my equipment, and now I could trust it. The next
point was Everest".
His comment on the ski-descent of Everest: - "I
skid down the first 300 meters at a gradient of 55 degrees,
then I removed my skis and used my crampons several
times until I reached 7,700 m. Then I put my skis back
on and never removed them".
Kammerlander has never used supplemental oxygene on
any of his climbs, in an interview he puts his view
on the use of supplemental oxygene: - "After Messner
and Habeler's historical endeavor, I don't justify the
use of oxygen because I consider it no longer acceptable
in this sport".
In his third attemt on K2, Hans finally made it to the
summit together with Jean Christophe Lafaille on July
22, 2001, they both was supposed to have climbed solo,
but teamed up together and summited through the Cesen
route. Hans also brought his skis to the summit to try
become the first person to make a complete ski Descent
of K2. However the conditions where bad and after 400
meters he decided to stop. - "When I saw a Korean
climber falling down the wall, passing just few meters
away from me, I took my skis off". Still he belives
a ski-descent is possible: - "The
 |
wall was a stiff 60 degrees, it would had been like skiing
on a bell tower roof". -"Somebody will do it,
but he'll need a lot of ability and a whole of luck."
When returning home from K2 during a press conferance
he stated he will not go for Manaslu that would be his
last 8,000 meter mountain to climb to have completed all
14 mountains above 8,000 meters. - "Too many tragedies
I lived on Manaslu, I will not face my bad dreams".
On Manaslu, during his 1991 expedition, his friends Karl
Grossrubatscher and Friedl Mutschlechner died in the attempt
to summit. However, he will continue climbing and nothing
was said about attempting other 8,000 meter mountains
again in the future. - "I can go on living with 13
tops instead of 14. There are so many beautiful mountains
in the world I can climb now. Not Manaslu"
"Skiing down K2 must be done in a honest way, as
I always tried to behave. I heard of people who reached
Everest top with plenty of oxygen and many Sherpas,
lately. I heard Sherpas carried skis for them as well.
This means corrupting the highest top of the world to
an easy seven thousand peak"
SELECTED CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS
|
1982 |
Cho Oyo (South Wall) |
|
1984 |
Gaherbrum I & II (traverse) |
|
1985 |
Dhaulagiri
Annapurna (North West Wall) |
|
1986 |
Makalu
Lhotse |
|
1988 |
Cerro Torre (17 hours up &
down) |
|
1989 |
Poincenot |
|
1990 |
Nanga Parbat (ski descent) |
|
1992 |
Matterhorn (up & down 4 times
in 24 hours)
Shivling |
|
1993 |
Ama Dablam |
|
1994 |
Broad Peak (ski descent from
7,000 metres) |
|
1996 |
Shisha Pangma (ski descent from
7.400 metres)
Everest (ski-descent) |
|
1999 |
K2 (abandoned 150 metres from
the summit due to avalanche risk)
Mutztagh Ata |
|
2000 |
K2 (attempt) |
|
2001 |
Ogre (attempt)
K2 (through Cesen route) |
| 2002 |
Ama Dablam |
Books by Hans Kammerlander
» Bergsüchtig
More about
Hans Kammerlander
» www.kammerlander.com
» Hans
Kammerlander & Reinhold Messner - the Gasherbrums
How to contact Hans Kammerlander
Alpinschule Südtirol
Jungmannstraße 8
I-39032 Sand in Taufers (Südtirol)
Fax: 0039-0474-690012
E-mail: info@kammerlander.com
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